Nick Demiro, Licensed Mortgage Loan Originator · NMLS #1316642  |  Edge Home Finance, LLC · NMLS #891464  |  NMLS Consumer Access Call or text (248) 860-3957

Loan programs

Eleven ways to finance a home, and an honest note about what each one costs you in exchange for what it gives you. If you are not sure which applies, that is what the first phone call is for.

Edge Home Finance, LLC is a mortgage broker, not a direct lender or creditor, so your file can be placed with a number of wholesale lending partners rather than a single company’s product list.

Conventional loans

A conventional loan is any mortgage that is not insured or guaranteed by a government agency. It follows guidelines set by Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, and it is what most buyers with steady income and reasonable credit end up using.

The reason it is the default is flexibility. Conventional financing works on primary homes, second homes and rental property, on condos, and on multi-unit buildings. Mortgage insurance, if your file needs it, is cancellable once you have built enough equity — which is not true of every program.

Probably a good fit if…

  • Your credit is in decent shape and your income is documentable
  • You have some money saved but not a fortune
  • You are buying a condo, a second home, or a small multi-unit
  • You want mortgage insurance that eventually goes away

Worth knowing

  • Credit history carries more weight here than on FHA, so it is worth checking your report before you shop
  • Condo projects get reviewed too, not just you — send me the building name early
  • Low down-payment options are available; the exact requirement depends on the property and your file

FHA loans

FHA loans are insured by the Federal Housing Administration. That insurance is what lets lending partners say yes to borrowers whose credit history has a few rough patches, or who have not had years to build up savings.

The trade-off is mortgage insurance that generally stays for the life of the loan on most FHA files. That is not a reason to avoid FHA — it is a reason to plan for it. Plenty of people use FHA to get in the door and refinance to conventional a few years later once credit and equity have improved. We can map that out at the start.

Probably a good fit if…

  • Your credit score is lower than conventional guidelines want
  • You had a bankruptcy, foreclosure or short sale in the past few years
  • Most of your down payment is coming as a gift from family
  • Your debt-to-income ratio is higher than conventional would allow

Worth knowing

  • FHA appraisals hold the property to minimum standards, so a fixer-upper may need repairs before closing
  • The FHA 203(k) option lets you finance renovation costs into the purchase — ask if you are looking at a home that needs work
  • Mortgage insurance on most FHA loans does not cancel automatically; refinancing is the usual exit

VA loans

If you served, this is almost always worth a look. VA loans are guaranteed by the U.S. Department of Veterans Affairs and are available to eligible Veterans, active-duty service members, National Guard and Reserve members, and some surviving spouses.

Two things make VA financing genuinely different. There is no monthly mortgage insurance, which changes the math on every comparison. And the down-payment requirement is more forgiving than anything else on the market. There is a funding fee in most cases, though service-connected disability can waive it.

The first thing we need is your Certificate of Eligibility. I can usually pull it in a few minutes.

Probably a good fit if…

  • You are an eligible Veteran, service member, or surviving spouse
  • You want to avoid monthly mortgage insurance
  • You have used a VA loan before and think you cannot use it again — entitlement often restores
  • You are buying near Selfridge, or relocating on PCS orders

Worth knowing

  • VA eligibility does not expire, and it can be reused
  • The VA appraisal includes minimum property requirements, so condition matters
  • A VA loan can be assumed by a qualified buyer later, which is worth knowing when you sell

USDA loans

USDA loans are backed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture and are meant for homes in eligible rural and outer-suburban areas. The word “rural” is misleading. A surprising amount of Michigan qualifies, including pockets of Lapeer, Livingston, St. Clair and Washtenaw counties within a comfortable commute of Detroit.

The headline feature is that eligible buyers can finance the full purchase price. There are two catches: the property has to sit inside a mapped eligible area, and household income has to fall under a cap that varies by county and family size. Both are quick to check — send me an address and I will tell you the same day.

Probably a good fit if…

  • You are looking at homes outside the dense suburbs
  • You have limited cash for a down payment
  • Your household income is moderate for your county
  • You are open to widening your search radius to make the numbers work

Worth knowing

  • Eligibility is tied to the property address, not to you — check before you write an offer
  • Income limits count the whole household, not only the people on the loan
  • USDA files carry their own guarantee fee, which works differently from conventional mortgage insurance

Jumbo loans

A jumbo loan is any mortgage larger than the conforming limit for your county. Because these loans cannot be sold to Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac, each lending partner sets its own guidelines — which means the answer genuinely varies from one lender to the next.

That variation is the argument for shopping the file. Edge Home Finance, LLC is a mortgage broker, so I can put the same jumbo scenario in front of several wholesale lenders and see who treats your income structure most sensibly. Two lenders can look at identical documents and reach different conclusions.

Expect heavier documentation and real reserve requirements. Start early.

Probably a good fit if…

  • Your purchase price is above the conforming limit for your county
  • Your income comes from bonus, RSUs, partnership distributions or self-employment
  • You are buying in Birmingham, Bloomfield Hills, or another higher-priced market
  • You want to compare a jumbo against a conforming first with a second lien

Worth knowing

  • Reserve requirements are typically measured in months of payments, so plan liquidity before you write an offer
  • Appraisal timelines run longer on unique or high-value properties
  • Guidelines vary meaningfully by lender, which is exactly why we shop it

New construction financing

Buying from a builder runs on a different clock than buying a resale. The purchase agreement gets signed months before the house exists, and the loan cannot close until the certificate of occupancy is issued.

The practical problem is timing. Documents go stale. Employment gets re-verified. Rate locks have expiration dates, and some builders have preferred lenders whose incentives come with strings attached. My job is to keep your file current, coordinate with the builder’s superintendent on realistic completion dates, and make sure you know what a builder incentive actually costs you before you accept it.

If you are considering a builder’s in-house lender, get a second opinion. Comparing two full loan estimates side by side is the only honest way to evaluate the offer.

Probably a good fit if…

  • You are buying a to-be-built or under-construction home
  • Your builder is pushing you toward their preferred lender
  • Your completion date is more than a few months out
  • You need to coordinate selling your current home with a moving target

Worth knowing

  • Extended lock options exist for long build timelines — ask about them before you sign
  • Builder incentives are worth evaluating on paper, not on a sales-office whiteboard
  • Avoid opening new credit accounts for furniture or appliances before you close

DSCR investor loans

DSCR stands for debt service coverage ratio. On these loans, qualifying is based on the rent the property is expected to produce rather than on your personal tax returns. If the rent covers the payment, the file works.

That matters for real estate investors, because the same write-offs that make your tax bill smaller also make your documented income look smaller. Investors who are doing well on paper are routinely told no by conventional underwriting for reasons that have nothing to do with their actual finances.

DSCR loans generally close in the name of an entity, which is useful if you are building a portfolio.

Probably a good fit if…

  • You own or are buying rental property
  • Your tax returns understate your real cash flow
  • You are past the number of financed properties conventional guidelines allow
  • You want to hold title in an LLC

Worth knowing

  • Underwriting looks primarily at the property’s income, not your W-2
  • Expect pricing and reserve requirements that reflect investor risk
  • Short-term rental income may be treated differently from a long-term lease — tell me which you are planning

Bank statement and 1099 loans

If you are self-employed, you already know the frustration. You run a profitable business, you write off everything your accountant legally lets you write off, and then a mortgage underwriter looks at your adjusted gross income and treats you like you barely earn anything.

Bank statement loans solve that by using deposits into your business or personal accounts as the income figure instead of your tax return bottom line. 1099 loans do something similar for contractors who receive 1099s but file with heavy deductions.

These are not shortcuts and they are not no-documentation loans. Underwriters look hard at deposit consistency, at how long the business has operated, and at whether the deposits are genuinely business revenue. Bring twelve to twenty-four months of statements and we will know quickly where you stand.

Probably a good fit if…

  • You are self-employed and your returns understate what you earn
  • You are a 1099 contractor with significant deductions
  • You own a business with a partner and take distributions
  • A traditional lender already told you no

Worth knowing

  • Consistency of deposits matters more than any single big month
  • Transfers between your own accounts get backed out, so gross deposits are not the whole story
  • Business ownership seasoning requirements vary by lender — another reason to shop the file

Refinancing

“Should I refinance?” is really four different questions, and the answer depends on which one you are actually asking.

You might want a lower payment. You might want to be done sooner, which usually means a higher payment and less interest overall. You might want to remove mortgage insurance you no longer need. Or you might want to pull cash out for a renovation or to clear higher-cost debt.

Those are four different loans. Refinancing also restarts the clock on amortization, so a lower payment is not automatically a win — if you are eight years into a thirty-year loan, stretching the balance back over thirty years can cost more in total even at a better price. I will show you both numbers and let you decide with your eyes open.

Probably a good fit if…

  • Your credit or equity position has improved since you bought
  • You are paying mortgage insurance you may no longer need
  • You want to shorten your term
  • You are carrying higher-cost debt that could be consolidated

Worth knowing

  • Closing costs matter — use the refinance calculator to find your break-even month
  • A shorter term is a different goal than a lower payment; be clear which you want
  • Cash-out guidelines are stricter than rate-and-term, and the equity requirement is higher

HELOC and home equity

A home equity line of credit lets you borrow against the equity you have built without touching the first mortgage you already have. That distinction is the whole point. If your existing first mortgage is on terms you like, replacing it to access equity may not make sense.

A HELOC works like a credit line: you draw what you need, when you need it, and pay interest only on what you have drawn. A closed-end second mortgage is the alternative — one lump sum, fixed payment, fixed term. Which one fits depends on whether your expense is a single known number or a series of unknown ones.

Common uses: a renovation, college tuition, bridging the gap between buying a new home and selling the old one, or consolidating higher-cost debt.

Probably a good fit if…

  • You have meaningful equity and a first mortgage you want to keep
  • You are renovating and do not know the final cost yet
  • You need a bridge between two homes
  • You want access to funds without committing to borrowing them

Worth knowing

  • Most home equity lines carry variable pricing that moves with the market — budget for that
  • Draw periods end, and the repayment period that follows has a different payment structure
  • Using home equity to pay off unsecured debt moves that debt onto your house; make that trade deliberately

Down payment assistance

Michigan runs down payment assistance through MSHDA, and several other states I am licensed in have their own versions. These programs help with the up-front cash a purchase requires — sometimes as a second lien, sometimes as a forgivable amount, depending on the program.

Two honest cautions. First, eligibility rules are strict and they change: income caps, purchase price caps, location requirements, homebuyer education requirements, and first-time buyer definitions that are not always what you would assume. Second, not every seller in a competitive market treats an assistance-backed offer the same way, so we should talk about how to present it.

None of that is a reason to skip it. It is a reason to check eligibility early rather than three days before you want to write an offer.

Probably a good fit if…

  • Cash for closing is the thing standing between you and a purchase
  • You are a first-time buyer, or have not owned in several years
  • Your income falls under your county’s program cap
  • You are willing to complete a homebuyer education course

Worth knowing

  • Program rules change without much notice — verify eligibility close to the time you buy
  • Some assistance is repayable on sale or refinance; know which kind you are taking
  • Homebuyer education is often required and takes time, so start it early

Still not sure which one fits?

That is normal, and it is not something you need to solve alone before calling. Tell me your situation and I will tell you which of these are actually on the table for you.